“Next”……..!

The process of “crossing borders” has changed a lot and it has generally become a much better organized and smoother procedure usually with the immigration/emigration and customs offices of the countries sharing a border being physically placed next or close to each other. However, sometimes technical and digital challenges have prolonged our border crossings – an inconvenience particularly when you’re tired and it’s getting late. It’s thus a good rule to cross borders in the morning thus having plenty of time in case of “systems” or other types of technical failures (for instance internet-failures, WIFI not working or the lack of electricity). Keep in mind that the unthinkable – often out of your control – happens when you least expect it.

As a rule, it’s also smart to avoid spending more time than absolutely required at the border area (all overlanders know this, but it’s for the record). Be prepared, have all your documentation ready (personal and for the vehicle), get the job done and get going! Also note that obligatory insurance (SOAT or something similar) in most countries often can be bought on-line or at the border crossing. However, keep eyes open and be aware of people offering SOAT-deals on the spot – they are often fake and invalid. But they cost you money and give you no insurance (you probably also get a fine if the police requests a proof of obligatory insurance).

Borders between countries are often, however, also areas of tension. Late one night on the Chilean side of the border to Peru (Arica/Tacna), we observed a guided “unofficial” border crossing. Due to special circumstances that night we were resting in the vehicle on the roadside only about 200 meters from the border station. Suddenly, an individual turned up in front of our car talking on his mobile phone. A few minutes later, a car turned up, dropping off three children, two women and a man. The “coyote” (a person who smuggles immigrants across borders) brought the group along the border fence and they all disappeared in the darkness. It was about 0300 a.m. We can only guess that the group crossed the border before sunrise…..

Of course, we do not know the context but can surely attest that these people were crossing borders in this manner because it is the only way… Noone does this for fun and it is also costly – being guided by a Coyote has a price. The reason is most likely that it is impossible to obtain the required formal travel documentation (for instance many legal- or illegal immigrants from Venezuela are simply unable to normalize their immigration status from outside of Venezuela).        

An example of this we observed at the border between Ecuador and Colombia, at the Ipiales border crossing.

We ended up staying at this border crossing for many hours, since someone of authority had gotten the brilliant idea of doing maintenance on the DIAN/custom’s “system” on a Sunday afternoon. Therefore, we suddenly got an excellent opportunity to simply look around us, discretely observing other travelers, hustlers (people trying to sell you a service or “help” you with something) and try to understand each actor’s actions and motivation… Obviously, quite an ambitious observation process…… but after all we had time to spend…

There was a long line for the Colombian immigration control. Among the many people waiting in line, was a young Venezuelan family – father, mother and three children. One of the children was handicapped and was in a wheelchair. When it was their turn at the counter, it appeared that the father was the only one with valid (not expired) travel documentation (passport/Visa). After arguing for clemency with the Colombian immigration officer for some tense moments, we heard the officer loudly say “Next” (in line) and the family of five quickly disappeared from our view… we just got a last glimpse of them pushing the wheelchair around the corner of the building.

But of course, we asked ourselves, what do they now do – and which options do they have? In our wishful thinking, we imagine the Colombian immigration officer talking to them outside, showing empathy and lending them a hand…

It is true that we have come across quite a few young people from Maduro’s Venezuela during our travels in South America. Many working on construction sites (even during the renovation of Villa Martha), car-washing entrepreneurs, mechanics, and so many other functions at all levels in society … many times doing jobs other “natives” don’t want to do. No to become political, but the right way for us to act can hardly be to systematically ship them home due to their irregular immigration-status or deny them the right to travel home (which requires the family to cross another country’s border).  

[insert photo of border-area]