Drama on route to Barranquilla

At this stage, following one of the main roads in the direction of the Caribbean cost, we were several times stopped by locals protesting everything from lack of water to security. At one time, we were stopped by a large group of mainly men (some quite young) with stick in their hands forcing us to slow down and stop (if there is only one or two, we usually just continue driving without getting into any discussion). But this time it was impossible as they were many and the road was blocked by tires, pallets and trees…

However, the protesters were reasonably well organized – absolutely everyone including huge tractor-trailers, buses, trucks and smaller vehicles like ours were stopped. Eventually, the smaller vehicles were given the option to be led through the village’s narrow backroads for some kilometers and back on the highway. Off course, the protesters required money – and sometimes I felt the price of my toll was being raised as they called me “gringo” when I stuck out my white bald head… For sure we paid our toll more than once…

The protesters were however quite civilized in spite of the sticks and the chaos – we did not pay large amounts of money, and the atmosphere was not particularly threatening, at least if you paid. The young rioters were excited (running around with sticks and charging passersby money is obviously more fun and profitable than a normal school day) by the power they suddenly had.

And it was tense, as I several times had to make several maneuvers to pass the narrow street corners, all the time closely observed by locals sitting outdoors of their small houses watching the action (me sweating, working the wheels, receiving instructions and good advice and frantically shifting gears in the heat of the midday sun).   

Back on the main road again and in company of the other cars of the “small vehicle” convoy, it did not take more than maybe 60 km before we again were stopped.

This time it was a question of security, apparently someone was murdered…. Again, the locals had stopped vehicles from passing, this time at the bottleneck just before a bridge. Naturally, all for the purpose of bringing attention to their feeling of insecurity. And surprisingly, there was no police presence – and while the mood was peaceful people was wondering and complaining why the authorities seemed to simply let the locals stop the traffic on one of the main roads leading to Barranquilla…

This is Colombia, and one must quickly learn to roll with the punches, never to think that things are under control and that it will be smooth sailing. If you do you are soon in for surprises.